For centuries, the inhabitants of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland have been weaving beautiful fabrics that are now known worldwide as Harris Tweed. The intricate craft has been passed down from generation to generation and has even been enshrined in Scottish law – only fabric that has been hand-woven by Outer Hebridean weavers can be called Harris Tweed. Now, however, there is a small innovation in the midst of tradition: the looms have been redesigned, and the craft has been secured for the future with 3D printing.
The company exports its tweed to more than 60 countries. Numerous famous fashion houses use the woolen fabric worldwide, such as Vivienne Westwood and Dior. What is less well known, however, is the production process behind Harris Tweed. This requires a special loom, which is made up of countless complex components. But what happens if one of these components breaks?
A traditional loom from the early 20th century
In this case, weavers often have to wait up to six months for replacement parts, or get creative during this period in order to still use the loom. Weavers have always had to keep their looms up to date in innovative ways. John Bennie, a weaver at Harris Tweed, says: “When a vital part of the loom breaks, it can halt production for weeks, which is incredibly frustrating. Finding a way to keep the loom running smoothly is essential.” The Scottish weaver actually had to repair his loom with a flywheel from his Ford Ka when a key component broke.
How Was the Project Implemented?
To change this and preserve the traditional craft, Harris Tweed Loom Spares Co. has now announced a collaboration with the National Manufacturing Institute of Scotland (NMIS). Together with the University of Strathclyde and the High Value Manufacturing (HVM) Catapult, the partners are working on a new design for the traditional looms, which are now to be produced locally and quickly using additive manufacturing.
In the NMIS Digital Factory, the project team has tested numerous materials that can make the looms both durable, while continuing to guarantee the high quality of the tweed. After all, any small change can affect the quality of the end product.
A member of the team tests a freshly 3D printed component (Photo Credit: NMIS)
One measure was the simplification of complicated components. A key component, for example, originally consisted of seven different components. These have now been redesigned into three 3D printed parts made of composite material. Thanks to these modifications, the new loom costs 99% less than the original and can be printed or repaired locally within two hours. John Bennie emphasizes: “It’s been great to be one of the first to try out the new 3D-printed assembly. The ability to get what we need, when we need it, will make a huge difference, as it means we can minimise downtime and focus on our work without unnecessary interruptions.”
Preserving the Traditional Art of Weaving in the Outer Hebrides
Scottish weavers form an integral part of the team in the project and work closely together to design the new components. Now that the current components have been tested and optimized, the team is ready to move on to the next round. Creating generalized components is difficult. Each loom is unique, partially because the weavers have been improvising repairs over the years. The ultimate goal of the project is to create adaptable parts that are easy to install while maintaining the integrity of the traditional weaving process.
Traditional craftsmanship is threatened with extinction, not only by the fragility of traditional machinery but also by the fashion industry’s shift to fast fashion. Kelly McDonald, Operations Manager at Harris Tweed Authority, comments on the role of traditional craftsmanship: “We take pride in our craftsmanship and tradition, but we also know that innovation is vital for keeping our industry strong for the generations to come. Working with NMIS is a significant step forward in future-proofing the looms critical to the production of Harris Tweed®. With the ability to replace parts quickly, easily, and affordably, our weavers can focus on what they do best without worrying about delays. This not only safeguards the future of our fabric but also supports the livelihoods of the island community who dedicate their skills to preserving the craft.”
The hand-woven tweed is known worldwide for its quality.
An inspiring story, and at the same time, an impressive look at the potential of additive manufacturing in connection with traditional techniques. Find more information HERE.
*Cover Photo Credits: Harris Tweed Authority